To get to the first stop on our journey, Livingstone, Rachel and I decided to take a bus company that came highly recommended to us by her fellow peace corps volunteers (“they hardly ever break down!”). Just north of the Zimbabwean border, Livingstone is the largest tourist attraction of Zambia’s southern province. To get there, we left at 6 AM and rode for six hours on what the worst stretch of road in Zambia, stopping only once for a short bathroom break, which we had to pay for. This was actually not as bad as it sounds, the bus was a regular coach style bus you see in the US and it was comfortable enough, though it pretty crowded and a little bumpy. When we got to Livingstone around noon and checked into a cozy little chalet with a thatched roof and mosquito nets at the Jollyboys Hostel. Our room was so cozy and shady that I immediately wanted to go to sleep, but Rachel dragged me get up, forced a banana and a softie (Coca-Cola) on me and dragged me to Victoria Falls (this might be a little but of an exaggeration but I cannot even begin to describe how hard it was for me to get up).
Victoria Falls made forget completely about my terrible feelings of weary, nauseous jet lag. It was a clear afternoon and the sun was out and casting circular rainbows all over the gorge. We could easily see across the falls to Zimbabwe and the Zambezi River down below. Rachel was pleased to notice that there were much fewer baboons in the park (when she came with my Mom and Aunt they had their lunch stolen by a hungry pack of chimps), but she spoke too soon. As we were leaving the park we noticed a busker playing in the market outside with a little baboon dancing to the music. We stopped to watch and the monkey started to come closer and closer to us. Suddenly it ran up to me and grabbed my uneaten banana right out of my hand! It was completely terrifying, and it didn’t help that a rude American tourist said, “you know you shouldn’t have given that banana to a monkey in a plastic bag.” Trying to get away as quickly as possible, we decided to walk over to the Zimbabwean side of the falls just to take a look.
Currently, Zimbabwe is not an ideal place to visit. Under the leadership of President Robert Mugabe, poverty and political repression have become increasingly widespread, many white Zimbabwean farmers are in exile and the economy has declined so much that you can buy one billion Zimbabwean dollars on the street for a little less than $1. Crossing over for a quick look or bungee jumping is allowed by the government, but it was a bit scary passing by the guards carrying huge rifles and there were also baboons completely surrounding the border (also scary). By about 5PM I was basically sleep walking, so Rachel and I got a pizza from a local shop and went back to the hostel to discuss our plans for the next day.
Since this was Rachel’s third visit to Livingstone and possibly her last vacation in Africa before leaving the peace corps, she really wanted to “do something,” some sort of “African” adventure offered by the various local tourist agencies (opposed to her life, which is a genuine African adventure of living in the bush). These adventures are generally guided safaris like “Walk with Lions!” or “Ride Elephants!” but since safari-like activities have a bad reputation for treating the animals badly, Rachel and I decided we would spend the morning white water rafting and the evening on a Sunset Cruise (also known as a “Booze Cruise”).
Lucky for us, the Zambezi River is home to world-class rapids, each with a creative name like, “the gnashing jaws of death.” You would think that we would need some sort of training to maneuver these but apparently only a brief safety talk is necessary. We joined a rafting team consisting of: a roly-poly Brit, his two children, a twenty-something Australian and a guide, Boyd, who handed us a paddle, helmet and life jacket, dubbed us “Team Mzungu” (Mzungu= white person) and led us down to the riverbank.
I should explain now that, though the national language of Zambia is English and a lot of Zambians speak it, it is very different from the English I am used to speaking. It is heavily accented, the letters “L” and “R” are interchangeable and words are often rearranged in weird ways. Communication was more challenging than I thought it would be–especially when the roar of class V rapids mixed in. For some reason, Boyd didn’t explain how you actually went about the white water rafting business until we were actually in the raft, churning around in the first rapid (“Boiling Point” which is between a class IV and V). Needless to say, Team Mzungu was not very successful, despite Boyd’s constant proclamations, “MZUNGUS’ CONQUERING THE GLEAT ZAMBAZI!!!” and “MZUNGU SWIMMING LESSONS!!” Every person in our raft (minus Boyd) fell out on “Boiling Point” and our raft flipped completely on two other rapids. Flipping was probably the most terrifying thing I have ever experienced (a legitimate fear, considering we later learned two people died on the river in the past year), however, as you may have already deduced, we survived the Great Zambezi under (despite?) Boyd’s watch, and at noon we climbed out of the raft and ascended a rickety ladder to get to the top of the Zambezi River gorge, where our transport (and luckily, cold beer and water) were waiting for us.
Our Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi (above the falls) was much more low-key, but we did see a bunch of Hippopotamuses and a Crocodile! Also, I should mention that I don’t have a camera (mine tragically broke two days before I left for Africa) so you’ll have to wait until Rachel gets home in April to see pictures, but here are some from the internet just to prove I’m not exaggerating: